As a teenager in the early 2000s, I witnessed the evolution of human hair extensions in the UK firsthand.
Growing up, I was captivated by the hair of women in R’n’B music videos, believing it was all natural. This belief reinforced the popular myth in the UK that American girls had longer hair because of their water. Little did I know that, by my own estimates, around 85% of these women were using some form of hair extensions—whether sew-ins, glued-in tracks, or even lace front wigs. Yes, frontals and full lace wigs have been around for years!
Back then, the UK was definitely behind on the latest hair trends and the types of hair being used. At the time, Remi hair, such as BOBBI BOSS, was considered the gold standard for hair extensions. For job-less school girls like me, Premium Too was our holy grail—we would buy a pack of 8” Premium Too for £2.49 at the Shabba store on Dalston High Street; East London (Drop a comment if you remember those days)
Slowly but surely, human hair extensions entered the UK market. By the time I had my secondary school leavers prom, I was able to invest in my first human hair extension piece—a full lace wig (which, in hindsight, I really hated). I had the six-week holiday between leaving secondary school and starting college to learn how to apply and maintain my lace wig, because there was no way I was planning on buying new hair for college—the wig cost me £180! Mission accomplished: I managed to keep myself looking cute in the wig, learning tips and tricks from my bestie, who had older sisters and was always one step ahead with hair and makeup.
During my two years at college, I saw the transition from human hair being worn by only a few of my peers to almost all the girls heading off to university sporting human hair extensions. Back then, Brazilian and Peruvian hair was all the craze. Reflecting on it now, this was a revolutionary time in the UK hair industry. Human hair became available at prices that were affordable for some and achievable for many who were willing to save their coins to purchase them.
pictures of my wearing my human hair extensions during my college education ( 2010-2012)
In my opinion, I truly believe this change was pioneered by Luvin Hair, who regularly held mega sales in East London, selling hundreds—if not thousands—of bundles of 'Brazilian/Indian/Peruvian' hair, the reigning hair trends at the time. Since then, we have seen the emergence of all types of hair grades, textures, and origins. Despite this, many people still have no clue what they are buying or really being sold. As a hairdresser, I’ve had countless experiences where clients disclosed the amount they paid for what they were told was human/virgin hair. However, upon bleaching, heat styling, and often just looking at the hair, I had to gently inform them that it wasn’t.
To cut a long story short, in the summer of 2022, I decided to take the plunge and embark on a solo trip to Vietnam to finally meet face-to-face with the supplier I had been working with for years via WhatsApp. I also decided to check out a few more vendors in my quest to find the best human hair extensions on the market. Much of the content in this blog is based on my firsthand experience in hair factories, conversations with suppliers, and my insider knowledge of the hair industry from working as a hairstylist.
For the purpose of this blog, I have broken it down into four main segments:
- What are human hair extensions?
- How are human hair extensions sourced?
- Why are they so expensive?
- Is it worth the investment?
1. What are human hair extensions?
Based on my personal experiences as a consumer, reseller, and professional who works with human-hair products daily, the general consensus is that human-hair extensions are:
"Any hair cut from a human donor, processed into a choice hair-piece item created with the intention of being attached to the head/hair of the consumer."
Once the hair is cut from the human donor, it is processed and manufactured into various forms of hair-piece attachments, including wefted bundles, closure/frontal pieces, clip-ins, tape-ins, micro-tips, and even toupees. These extensions can be applied through methods such as sewing in wefted bundles, gluing in tracks, using adhesive tapes, clipping in with attachable clip combs, or constructing them into wigs to be worn as glued or glueless units.
So, that's the basic understanding of what human hair extensions are.
However, within the category of human hair extensions, you may have come across many different terminologies used to describe and explain the type of hair you might be interested in buying. In all honesty, there are a lot of descriptors commonly thrown around the market, sometimes used out of context. For the sake of this blog, I will clarify the essential terminology you need to understand the quality of our human-hair extensions.
| Term | Definition |
|
Donor
|
referring to the individual who is selling their hair.
|
| single donor hair |
hair-extension piece made from the hair strands cut from a single donor. typically refers to a single unit such as a closure, wefted bundles and tape/clip in pieces.
|
| Multi donor hair |
Hair extension piece made from the hair strands cut from multiple donors; more than one person. This is common for hair extension pieces such as wigs which typically require different lengths and more hair (the average human hair density is 120%) |
| single-drawn |
extensions containing multiple lengths of hair mixed into the extensions, resulting in hair that is thickest at the top, tapers at the middle and is thin on the ends.
|
| Double drawn |
extensions containing simillar lengths of hair mixed into the extensions; the majority of the shorter hair, resulting in hair that is thickest at the top, tapers at the middle and is thin on the ends.
|
| virgin /raw hair | ‘human hair which is completely undamaged, un-processed and completely intact’. Simply put, hair that is untouched; No hair bleach, no hair dye, no relaxer, or texturiser. |
Now that we have the terminologies sorted, lets get into the real tea about why human-hair is such a 'hype'.
Human hair extensions are intended for anyone (irrespective of age, gender or race) who:
- Want a fuller and/or longer head of hair
- Would like to try different hair colours without chemically processing their own natural hair
- Wants to protect their natural hair from excessive styling and/or heat damage
- Want to wear different textured hair styles
One thing about the human hair industry is it does not discriminate.. it has something for everyone!
2-How are human hair extensions sourced?
During my trip to Vietnam, I was able to observe the sourcing and manufacturing process of human hair extensions from start to finish. It begins with donors who either volunteer or are handpicked by sourcing agents. Listening to the stories of the donors, I understood that their reasons for selling their hair varied, but the general consensus was that it provided a lucrative source of income. The hair collected is often categorised by length, texture, and quality.
Once sourced, the hair undergoes several manufacturing steps to transform it into various hair products. These steps include:
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Cleaning: The hair is thoroughly washed to remove any dirt or impurities.
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Sorting: The cleaned hair is sorted into different categories based on length, texture, and quality.
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Treatment (Dos not apply to RAW hair types) The hair is treated to enhance its durability and styling potential. This involves applying chemicals to alter the hair's texture, colour, or to add shine.
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Processing: Finally, the hair is dried and processed into the desired products, such as hair extensions, wigs, weaves, hair tapes, k-tips, micro-rings, and clip-in extensions.
Depending on the final product, the hair will undergo either the wefting process or the ventilation process. The wefting process involves sewing the hair into long strips, known as wefts, which are then used to create hair extensions, weaves, or wigs. The ventilation process, on the other hand, involves hand-tying individual hair strands onto a lace or mesh base, which is commonly used for making lace wigs and closure pieces.
3-Why Is It So Expensive?
The cost of human hair extensions often raises eyebrows. Despite the hair donor receiving as little as £20 for a full head of 18-inch hair, there are several factors that drive up the price to £350-£500 by the time it reaches the consumer. Here's a breakdown of why human hair extensions are so expensive:
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Supply Chain Costs: As hair moves through the supply chain, costs accumulate at each stage. This includes sourcing, manufacturing, shipping, and distribution. Each step adds value but also increases the final price.
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Shipping and Import Duties: Hair extensions from Asia incur shipping costs, and upon arrival in the UK, they are subject to import duties and taxes. These additional expenses significantly increase the retail price.
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Brand and Quality: The brand and quality of the hair extensions also affect the price. High-quality, premium hair extensions are more expensive than lower-quality alternatives. Brands that offer consistent quality tend to charge more for their products.
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Market Competition: The hair extensions market is saturated, with millions of search results for 'human hair extensions UK'. However, not all products marketed as human hair are genuine. Reliable retailers who provide 100% human hair extensions invest in maintaining quality, which is reflected in their pricing.
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Supply and Demand: High demand for quality hair extensions can drive prices up. When there is a high demand for a limited supply of genuine human hair, prices naturally increase.
Genuine human hair extensions are a worthwhile investment. They can be coloured, heat-styled, reused, and reinstalled for up to five years with proper care. Although the initial cost seems high, it often proves more economical in the long run compared to repeatedly buying cheaper, less durable alternatives.
4- Is It Worth the Investment?
Without a doubt, yes!
Human hair extensions offer unparalleled longevity, quality, and that coveted 'well put together' appearance that every woman desires. While synthetic hair pieces may be trendy, they simply can't match the natural beauty and durability of human hair extensions.
Let's face it, good-looking hair has the power to transform your entire appearance, effortlessly elevating your look from drab to fab. Whether you're rocking a full face of makeup or embracing your natural beauty, well-styled hair is the ultimate confidence booster.
Investing in human hair extensions is a decision that pays dividends in terms of both style and self-assurance. While they may require an initial financial investment, the long-term benefits far outweigh the cost. With proper care and maintenance, high-quality human hair extensions can last for months, ensuring you always look and feel your best.
However, it's essential to recognise that human hair extensions are not a permanent solution. Over time, they may need to be replaced or removed, adding to the ongoing upkeep costs. Despite this, the confidence and satisfaction gained from wearing human hair extensions make them a worthwhile investment for those seeking superior quality and style.
To conclude, while human hair extensions require careful consideration and upkeep, their ability to enhance your natural beauty and boost your confidence makes them a valuable addition to any beauty routine. So why wait? Invest in yourself and experience the transformative power of human hair extensions today.